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(Adamstown, Maryland)
Organic Farming from a City Boy's Perspective
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Growing up in the city, I saw and heard some horrific incidents. From car accidents, a friend’s brother touches a live wire on top of a train; a body lays in pieces after a motorcycle accident, to burying my puppy after being struck by a car. All of which make me cringe at the thought of blood shed at my own hands. I have written about this theme often, because it is something that has caused great anguish and emotional pain, which I had hoped by exposing, would allow me to move forward.
I guess in a way I was right, if it was most things, I would like being right. This is not one of them and I have lost more then I bargained for, at least in the end. I do have perspective; I have talked to my nephews who have both served on the frontlines in Afghanistan and Iraq. The things we have talked about and how they conducted themselves while transitioning back into society has been inspiring and made me feel foolish at my own inadequacies.
We have exhausted every possible angle for selling our chickens, legally, without us processing. In the state of Maryland, if you do not process your own chickens, legally, you cannot sell them off the farm, let alone retail. If you want to expand your market to restaurants, wholesale or even farmer’s markets, you need a license. Therefore, I have taken the next step in getting our state certified poultry processor license. First step was taking the processing class and passing the test with at least an 80. We have accomplished the aforementioned.
Since then, I have completed the twenty some page application. The next step is to mail it in and wait for the evaluation of our production, sanitation, safety measures, hazard mitigation, waste disposal and chilling process. After examination, comes the letter announcing the results of our plan. If we succeed in meeting all sanitation, safety and disposal procedures, we move to the inspections phase. We then wait for the inspector to call and setup the inspection of our processing.
This has all come with little cost but a lot of emotional angst. However, I took a step that I thought I would never take, nor did I have confidence that I could ever bring myself to take. It has been years in the making but I have crossed over into the realm of grim reaper. I did not lose my breakfast, lunch or dinner as I thought I would, but I lost something worse. To a certain extent, I lost a piece of something, that I had fought a lifetime trying to keep safe. The idea of me ending the life of an animal, that I had raised and cared for, was not fathomable. I have written here, that it was something I was not able or willing to face.
I feel no sense of accomplishment, there is not a speck of satisfaction or any positive feeling having faced one of the hardest tests of my life when I stepped up for the sake of the farm. I am not relieved, if anything I am saddened that I have had to take this step after so many years of fighting against our raising and processing of animals.
Temple Grandin said that constant processing of animals makes people sadistic. I can see why and I have only done it twice. I think it is a defense mechanism used to reconcile what you are doing on a daily basis. I am not saying it is right, it is not, there is no justification for the mistreatment of animals no matter the situation. However, there are emotions involved, we are humans and emotions come with the package. Some of us are better able to handle situational emotions then others and I am trying.
Humane slaughter is an oxymoron but as Temple and Joel Salatin illustrate the end of an animal's life, although permanent, should and can be done with the least stress possible to the animal. I know our birds are raised in the most humane, comfortable and invigorating environment possible, that they lived free and outside with plenty of room and were protected from predatory ills. I try to joke that they live better then I do, what with their organic diet, freedom, fresh grass and a stress-less environment.
However, it does not lessen the fact that my attempt to be a successful vegetable grower is in great peril. It is a bitter pill to swallow given what we now must do in order to keep the operation viable. This is just the beginning, eventually I will need to process one weekend every month. Michael Pollan in "Ominvores Dilemma" pointed out, how far removed people are from their food source. This makes it harder for consumers to see what small farms go through in order to survive and provide safe, fresh food. That is why education is important, the more people learn the more they understand the earnest effort that small sustainable farmers put fourth for their health and the environments.
On a farm, you face difficulties frequently and you do what is warranted within guidelines, humane treatment, regulations, and social mores, ethical and sustainable practices and sometimes by doing so, you just find yourself over the edge and there is no chance of return.
Buy Local: Become part of a greater good, help build your local community food chain.
Posted by Brian
@ 06:00 PM EST
Raising Rhode Island Red hens has had its ups and downs for us. We've had to euthanize for illness and we've brought injured hens back to a laying state from a dog attack. The question of what to do when they stop laying has weighed heavy on us. I have written of the heartache, guilt and anguish that we face due to the outcome of this decision.
One day I had a tour for a group of city folks who are environmentally sensitive and wanted to learn about sustainable practises. For the most part it went well until we got to the hens. “What do you do with your hens once they are past their useful egg laying life?” My first thought was to say go to LocalHarvest.org and read our blog. But instead, I said, “I don’t know, our first flock is still laying and we are into their fourth year.” Actually we get about six eggs in a week from the five residents. Without blinking an eye the man says “It’s horrible the way hens are used for laying then disposed of, denying them a full life,” I wanted to ask if he ate chicken but I didn’t. He’d freak to learn meat birds are processed as early as thirteen weeks. He wants the hens to live out their life even though they do not produce. And that is a growing school of thought even though hens can live up to thirteen years. I had written about this and I wondered if I was being tested. I’ve learned that less is more so I didn’t say much on the topic.
I did relate some of my dismay with having to make economic decisions for the health of the organization that have the opposite effect for the hens. I explained feed costs and so forth and h elooked like he was genuinely interested in the plight.
When we got to the end of the tour I showed them the difference between a real free range organic egg and one purchased from the local supermarket. I also talked about the Mother Earth News article that pointed out the benefits of true “free range” eggs. True free range eggs are high in omega 3’s, lower in cholesterol and saturated fats and have seven times the amount of beta carotene. I then talked about the difference in price and how our eggs were basically three times higher than in a grocery store and I saw some heads shake.
The tour ended and we were selling vegetables and fruits but the eggs were not moving. Having extolled the virtues of free range eggs I asked did anyone want any eggs. “No, we are vegans” was the reply. My next thought was to ask if anyone wanted to adopt a hen. And, being the kind of person that has a dysfunctional "brain to mouth" evaluation system, I blurted the thought out. I got quizzical looks after the question until I started to explain.
We need help paying for the food; we’d take care of the birds but feed for them costs money. I’ve been worrying for a couple years about this. We can not take a chick, raise it from a day old and then dispatch it because they don’t lay enough to pay for their own food. But we can not stay in business if we keep hemorrhaging money. But in that instant in front of the group the idea just flashed. Adopt a hen or the bird gets it. A similiar threat was used before, on-line, by a young entrepreneur, why not now? Besides, a person bought pet rocks before, surely adopting a hen so it could live their life out was a beneficial way to spend.
I felt good about that idea but after everyone left I had time to think about how things would work. When you look at this world and in particular the US and know that people go to bed hungry every day the idea just pales. Why would people spend money on keeping a hen a live, so they can live their life out, versus giving to a food bank to feed the poor and less fortunate? I volunteered in a soup kitchen for about a year. I saw first hand the faces and families of poverty, bad decisions and working poor.
It was then that peace and clarity came to my mind. We can process the hens and give them to the local soup kitchens. A sense of warmth came over me when my thought was that the hen’s final purpose was for humanity and we could stay true to our values. It doesn’t lesson the pain we will feel and the associated guilt but at least we can hold on to the fact that the hen’s last act is helping feed the poorest and less fortunate among us.
The hens' demise has been on my mind since before we purchased the first flock. We are a humane farm and we have given our hens the best life they could live. I too believe that a hen should live a natural life but when you start to accumulate the amount of hens we have either we need to charge ten dollars a dozen for eggs, or we can process them or we can go out of business.
Going out of business is just what the Industrial Food Complex (IFC) counts on for the small farmer. They can not compete with local small farmers when it comes to safe, fresh and tasty foods that have a small carbon foot print and benefit the local economy. This movement is growing, more people are learning of the perils of our industrial food supply and thousands of people like us are doing extraordinarily hard work to provide safe, tasty alternative choices. We have found a way to use our spent layers as part of being a humane farm and that feels good.
Buy Local: From an actual local grower not a chain saying they do
Posted by Brian
@ 06:48 PM EDT
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We are a humane farm; our animals almost run the place. However, sometimes there is mortality. With each loss we've had on the farm it has been hard on me and I take them all personally even though I know I shouldn't. You don't take responsibility for the health and welfare of an animal and not take it personally when it dies. At least I don't. We learn and make sure if it’s controllable it doesn't happen again, we try our best to be good stewards and shepherds. This is one thing that coming from the city actually works against me. If I grew up on a farm my bet is I'd have a better handle on the whole mortality thing. I have to get over this though; if we are going to succeed I am going to have to get over this hurdle. Think and say what you will about my manliness and machismo, it’s just how I'm wired. If you are going to raise an animal organically you are going to spend a lot of time looking out for its well being. This equates to spending a lot of time with the animal, observing them and watching for signs of illness, distress, infestation, injury and overall environmental health.
As we thought over twenty years ago death on a farm is inevitable and it is a hard burden for us to bare. I guess that’s why it took us so long before we added chickens to the mix. I'm ok with vegetables passing away; it seems natural to me. This is the first time that I found growing up in the city was an impediment to what we do here. I'm not naive I saw horrible violent things by accident living in the city. I worked in a hospital for over ten years; I saw the grief people went through. I saw more than one person die in front of my eyes. Within the last two years both of my parents have passed. I've had more loved ones than I care to count leave this earth. I am just not good with death, as natural as it is and as much as it is part of the whole life cycle I am not good with mortality.
I have no problem going to the local butcher and getting my meat and pork. I see the cows, pigs and chickens in the field. I know where my meat comes from, how it is raised and processed. I've had numerous blind taste tests with family, friends, clients and students. More than 90 percent pick the local product, whether it is eggs, bacon, steak, hamburger, cucumbers, tomatoes or whatever. I know that we are getting the safest, tastiest, freshest products anywhere.
Does this mean I will be vegetarian or vegan? No, this is the paradox that is my life. I love to cook and grow vegetables. Now, we have our potential role in providing fresh poultry to our community as part of the sustainability model. It is one of the more profitable functions on a farm.
Free range, organic poultry is in great demand and it is a low cost, low maintenance activity. You get day old chicks, raise them for sixteen weeks and process them. Raise them humanely, free of stress and in an open environment and you’ve given them the best life that can be hoped for. Add to that we would use Rhode Island Reds because they are a recovering species and we are furthering sustainable agriculture.
Seven years we've been talking about this, 2555 days. Seven years we've been deciding not to raise poultry for meat. We are not making enough money to be profitable. Five out of the seven years we have shown a loss and this is with out expensing our time as labor. Meat chickens add a degree of stability and profitability that we have not achieved yet from vegetables, berries, jams, bread and cooking classes. It is that simple, yet for us there has been nothing simple about the decision. As natural as death is on a farm it is still creates a paradox for me.
Buy Local - from a farmer not a chain that advertises "Local"
Posted by Brian
@ 06:25 PM EDT
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