07 Jul Sat 2018
Ask Arlene about shallots ©
Ask Arlene about shallots ©
By Arlene Wright-Correll
A recent email question asks, “I want to try and plant some shallots. Can you help me?”
It is always best to plant in the fall because fall-plantings yield twice as much. Protected by a good mulch and snow cover, shallots, have survived minus 25°F. The exact time to plant must be learned by experience. What you want is for your bulbs to establish a good strong root system, but not to make much, if any, tender top growth before the ground freezes.
Normally, planting 4-6weeks before hard winter comes is just about right. The top growth may appear to make a few inches of growth and die back during winter, but if the bulb hasn’t had its food reserves sucked down too hard by making leaves in fall, it will still retain enough vigor to burst into rapid growth as soon as the soil warms up.
Next space your shallots approximately 4-6 inches apart with the rows 18 inches apart. Remember to plant the bulb root side down, the top of the bulb 1 inch below the surface. Planting too deep grows elongated bulbs which we find don’t store well.
If you want really large bulbs, then side dress the plants when growth resumes in spring. Most organic gardeners can use chicken manure or any kind of seed meal (cottonseed meal, canola meal, linseed, soybean, etc.) at a rate of about 1/2 to 1 gallon per 50 row feet. Remember that when the bulb begins, any mulch or soil covering the bulbs should be pulled back so the bulbs form on the surface of the soil and dry down.
At harvest time remember that the tops of these species often make very tasty scallions, especially potato onions. Also remember if you snip off too many sprouts, there will be fewer and smaller bulbs. It is important that the bulbs form tough protective skins. To accomplish this make sure your plants mature in dry soil. This means as the bulbs are forming you should stop watering them.
The time to harvest is when most of the tops have browned off and fallen over. Loosen the soil first with a spading fork and then gently lift the bulbs. Their skins have not hardened yet so it is important to avoid bruising or tearing the skin. The bulbs, with their tops still attached should be air-dried for 2-3 weeks until the tops have completely shriveled.
Then cut the tops off with sharp scissors or pruning shears about 1 inch above the bulb, spread the bulbs out on wire racks in the shade (in a garage) to cure for 2-3months. By then it will be time to replant or store them for the winter (those you haven’t eaten yet).
May the Creative Force be with you!
Arlene Wright-Correll